Odisha Diaries: Puri, Konark, Chilika Lake and a Feast with Friends

 

A Trip with Friends, Made Special by Locals

This was a special trip with friends. The four of us—Mansi, Tripti, Snehal and me—were being hosted by our friends Rahul and Pratyasha, a couple who live and work in Damanjodi, Odisha.

Pratyasha, who is originally from Bhubaneswar, was our local guide for the trip, showing us around her home state.

One of the biggest perks of having a local show you around is discovering places beyond the usual tourist trail. Exploring a place through the eyes of someone who knows it intimately, and getting a glimpse of its culture beyond the commercial tourist crowds, is one of the best parts of travelling.

Day 1: Bhubaneswar, Raghurajpur and Puri

We flew to Bhubaneswar, the capital of Odisha. Upon arrival, we piled into a car and headed towards our hotel.

Of course, no trip is complete without sampling the local food!

On the way, we stopped for breakfast and tried dahi bara, a popular local street food. The dish we had was a delicious combination of soft vadas, curd, chutneys and crunchy toppings. The meal came with a serving of dahi pani, too. A complimentary extra is always welcome, right?

We had hired a car for two days, giving us the flexibility to explore the region before catching our train to Damanjodi the following evening.

Raghurajpur: A Village That Keeps Art Alive

On our way towards Puri, we stopped at Raghurajpur, a heritage village renowned for preserving Odisha's traditional art of Pattachitra.

What makes this village special is that art is not confined to galleries or museums. It is woven into the lives of its residents, with traditional artistic skills passed down through generations. Many artists from the village have received prestigious national recognition for their work.

Pattachitra is a distinctive form of painting traditionally created on specially prepared cloth, known as patta. The process involves preparing the surface, applying natural and mineral-based colours, and painstakingly adding intricate details by hand.

The finished paintings are traditionally coated with lacquer, which helps make them water-resistant and durable. These are not merely paintings; they are pieces of heritage that can be treasured for generations, provided they are cared for properly.

Many of the paintings we saw featured Lord Jagannath and other mythological themes. The detailing was extraordinary, with intricate patterns and vibrant colours bringing each composition to life.

The artists had also adapted their traditional craft to contemporary products, including hand-painted fridge magnets, containers and masks.

It was wonderful to see an art form being preserved while also finding new ways to remain relevant.

Pattachitra — Odisha's traditional art of intricate, hand-painted storytelling.

Jagannath Temple, Puri: A Journey into Faith and Tradition

After changing into traditional attire, we headed to the famous Jagannath Temple in Puri.

We had darshan and listened to stories about the temple's origins, traditions and rituals.

The temple complex is enormous, and its ancient architecture is remarkable. Despite its age, the complex appeared well maintained, with established systems supporting the movement of devotees.

As we entered, we noticed facilities for washing our feet and hands before proceeding towards the sacred areas.

The main shrine houses the deities of Lord Jagannath, his elder brother Lord Balabhadra, and their sister Devi Subhadra. Numerous smaller shrines are spread throughout the temple complex, each with its own significance.

Among the shrines we learnt about were those dedicated to Goddess Lakshmi and Goddess Vimala, along with other deities associated with the temple's traditions.

Our guide told us, "You have to sit at the Mahalakshmi Temple after the darshan. You cannot leave without sitting!"

We were fortunate to experience a special, close-up darshan and enter the inner sanctum to seek blessings. It was a memorable experience.

The Fascinating Tradition of Nabakalebara

One of the most fascinating aspects of Jagannath Temple is the tradition of Nabakalebara, during which the wooden deities are replaced with new ones.

The deities are made from sacred neem wood, and the replacement takes place at intervals determined by the temple's traditional calendar. The interval is not fixed: it can vary from approximately 8 to 19 years.

According to the tradition, the old wooden forms are replaced, while a sacred substance known as Brahma is transferred from the old deities to the new ones. The precise nature of this substance and the associated ritual are kept secret.

The tradition reflects a distinctive understanding of the divine: Lord Jagannath is treated much like a living being who sleeps, falls ill, rests and undergoes renewal.

There is also a period during the annual ritual calendar when the deities are believed to be resting and are not available for ordinary public darshan.

The Legend of Lord Jagannath's Origins

The stories surrounding Lord Jagannath are equally fascinating.

One traditional account connects the deity with Lord Krishna and the belief that Krishna's essence continued to exist after his death.

Another story involves a forest-dwelling community, often associated with the Savara or Sabar people, and the worship of the deity Nilamadhava.

According to the legend we heard, a king became interested in learning about the deity worshipped by the community. A person sent to investigate eventually married the community chief's daughter and learnt the secret of the deity's location.

The story forms part of the rich body of traditions associated with the origins of Jagannath worship and the establishment of the temple at Puri.

These accounts are a fascinating blend of devotion, tribal traditions, royal patronage and mythology. While the stories are deeply meaningful within the religious tradition, their legendary details should be distinguished from independently established historical facts.

We also saw the area associated with the burial of the old wooden deities during Nabakalebara, a place known as Koili Baikuntha.

The stories, rituals and traditions made the temple visit far more meaningful than a simple sightseeing stop.

We could have spent much longer exploring the temple, but the day was moving quickly, and Konark was still on our itinerary.

Konark Sun Temple: Where Architecture Meets Astronomy

Our next stop was the magnificent Konark Sun Temple, built in the 13th century and dedicated to Surya, the Sun God.

The temple is conceived as a colossal stone chariot of the Sun God, with intricately carved wheels and horses symbolising its celestial journey.

The structure features 24 elaborately decorated stone wheels, each with its own intricate patterns and details. The wheels are often interpreted symbolically in relation to time, while some of them can also function as sundials.

It is extraordinary to think that the movement of shadows across the carvings can be used to estimate the time of day. The temple is a remarkable example of the sophistication of India's traditional architecture and craftsmanship.

The Mystery of the Magnets

We also heard a fascinating story about the temple's original idol supposedly being suspended between powerful magnets, one above and another below it.

According to the legend, the arrangement caused the idol to float in mid-air. Another version claims that the magnetic arrangement interfered with ships and navigation, leading the British to remove the magnets.

It is an intriguing story, but it is important to remember that this is a popular legend rather than an established historical fact.

The temple itself, with its intricate stonework and extraordinary design, offers more than enough reason to marvel at the ingenuity of its builders.

The Dance Hall and Its Sculptures

The temple complex also includes the Natamandira, or dance hall, whose beautifully carved pillars and sculptures reflect the importance of music and dance in the region's religious and cultural traditions.

The sculptures depict dancers, musicians and numerous other aspects of life, making the temple almost like a stone record of the society that created it.

We also attended the light-and-sound show, which narrated the temple's history and added another dimension to the experience.

By the end of the day, we had seen two remarkable examples of Odisha's cultural heritage: a living centre of devotion at Puri and an architectural masterpiece at Konark.

Konark Sun Temple — a monumental stone representation of the Sun God's celestial chariot.

 

Day 2: Chilika Lake and a Taste of Odia Cuisine

We woke up the next morning and drove from Puri towards Chilika Lake.

We boarded a covered boat and ventured into the lake. At one point, we spotted the fin of a dolphin as it surfaced briefly before disappearing again.

It was a fleeting sighting, but spotting wildlife in its natural surroundings always adds a little excitement to a trip.

We were then taken to an island, where we were shown red crabs.

The experience took an unexpected turn when people began offering us opals, yellow sapphires, pearls and other gemstones. They even demonstrated how they supposedly extracted precious stones from oysters in front of us!

We later learnt that this is a reported tourist scam in the area, with visitors being shown oysters containing supposedly valuable pearls or stones and encouraged to purchase them.

It was certainly a reminder to be cautious about buying gemstones or pearls from informal sellers during sightseeing excursions.

Lunch at Dalma: Discovering Odia Cuisine

After our boat trip, we stopped for lunch at Dalma, where we sampled local Odia cuisine.

Our meal included buttermilk rice, papad, vegetables, mushroom potapoda and dahi baigana.

I have experienced cuisines from different parts of India, but this meal introduced me to flavours and combinations that were quite different from what I had tasted before.

An Odia thali at Dalma.

The food was comforting, distinctive and a wonderful introduction to Odisha's culinary traditions.

Dahi baigana and mushroom potapoda

Desserts for the Journey

On our way to Bhubaneswar to catch the train, we stopped at the Mayfair's Mama Mia and packed some food for the journey.

Naturally, we couldn't leave without indulging in a few desserts!

We tried kheer kadam, steamed sandesh and rasabali. Our friend had also packed baked rasgulla, chhena poda and chhena gaja for the train.

Odisha has a wonderful tradition of sweets, many of which are quite different from the Bengali sweets that are more familiar to me.

And yes, we ate all of them!

Our evening snacks and dinner on the train turned into a feast of Odia desserts. With friends, good food and a long journey ahead, it was a rather delicious way to end our time exploring Puri and its surroundings.

The twelve-hour train journey from Bhubaneswar to Damanjodi brought this part of our trip to an end.

We were carrying back memories of beautiful art, fascinating temple traditions, an extraordinary architectural masterpiece, new culinary experiences and, most importantly, a wonderful time spent together.

And that is what makes travelling with friends so special.